Canadian Production Wheel

Also known as a CPW, this kind of wheel was made in Quebec in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, with its main features being a large drive wheel, iron fittings, and a tilt tensioning system. These old wheels are all over, mostly binge used as decorations, but if not warped or missing any parts they can quickly be spruced back up to working condition. There’s of course a lot of them in Quebec, with a fair number in Ontario as well, as it was a kijiji ad that alerted me to the existence of this one in the GTA:

 

 

 

 

 

 

It had spent the past forty years as an accent piece in the home of a couple who had originally picked it up at an auction. Now downsizing their antiques collection, the couple had it priced to sell and when I saw the photos I couldn’t resist going to take a look at it. Depending on where you are, it can be relatively easy to get a CPW, but to find one in working or easily repairable condition can be a lot harder. When I saw the great shape it was in, it was about two minutes before the money was handed over and the wheel was loaded up in my car.

I’ve learned most of what I know about CPWs from the Ravelry group dedicated to discussing them. The extremely knowledgeable spinners in that group have amassed a wealth of information about these wheels and their makers. From casual reading I’d learned to tell the difference from a real CPW and a “spinning wheel-shaped object”–a useless decoration mass-manufactured in the 1970s and occasionally being sold as the real thing. I also knew to look extra carefully at the flyer/bobbin, as it’s the most likely piece to have been lost on an antique and the most expensive to replace. This wheel had its original set-up, right down to the leather bearings for the flyer rod:

 

 

 

 

 

 

The hooks on the flyer arms are a bit bent but truthfully it doesn’t affect the way it spins. And all the originally cast-iron fittings are still there and in good shape as well. The use of iron seems to be pretty unique to these old Quebec wheels, which were clearly made with durability in mind. Most eye-catching is probably the treadle, which you can imagine being used for decades without wearing out:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another sign of a CPW is a maker’s mark. This can be easy or hard to locate, depending on if the wheel has been refinished, or if the maker was subtle about where they left their mark in the first place. This wheel happens to be a Desjardins, with an unmistakable mark sloppily stencilled in red paint across the table, letting you know in no uncertain terms who made it and that it came from Saint-Andre de Kamouraska. The Desjardins also numbered their wheels. Mine’s 205:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some CPWs can be quite ornate, with flutes and beads and scallops and all kind of other fancy woordwork. Desjardins wheels… don’t really fall into that category. Don’t get me wrong, this is an engineering thing of beauty, and I think it’s certainly pretty on the aesthetic side too, but here’s a typical Desjardins decoration:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yes, that’s red paint dabbed on the spokes. At first I thought it was the work of whoever bought the wheel way back when, but the Ravelry group informed me it’s original. Something to replace the turnings that would be seen on the spokes of wheels by other makers. I actually kind of like it.

So, how does it spin? I made a drive band from a length of cotton string and let me tell you, this is not a wheel for a beginner. There is a very narrow range when it comes to tensioning, between “too loose and the drive band flies off” and “too tight and the barely spun wool is ripped out of one’s hands.” If you’re in the right place, though, it spins beautifully. It’s smooth, efficient, and powerful. And clearly made for spinning large amounts of fine yarn, probably as supplementary income when the textiles industry was booming in Quebec. I like the fact that it’s clearly been used for its original purpose–there’s even something scrawled in cursive French on the side of the drive wheel that I can’t quite make out. I’m going to look a little more closely to see if I can read what it says.

 

Posted in canadian production wheel, ravelry, Spinning, spinning wheel, vintage | 2 Comments

Quick reversible bag

A few months ago, my friend Alex mentioned wanting to learn how to knit. She’d learned once, as a child, from a relative but it had been a decidedly less than relaxing experience, and she’d forgotten how. I offered to teach her, and dug out some bamboo needles I was no longer using, as well as some purple yarn I’d spun way back when. Over a couple of coffees I taught her how to cast on and the basic knit stitch, and soon she was texting me about where she could buy more yarn.

Quick digression: I am not a sewist. Really, I dabble, and occasionally I make something that looks half-decent. One thing I do like about sewing is that it’s fast, especially compared to the snail’s pace at which I knit. So when it came to thinking about holiday gifts for friends this year, I thought I might both encourage a friend in her new hobby as well as practice my sewing skills (not to mention use up some of my fabric stash) by making a small project bag for Alex.

Way back when, I picked up some grab bags of high-end fabric pieces at a shop in Ottawa. I still have most of them sitting around, so I pulled them out and starting trying to find two pieces that matched. Most are one-offs and I thought I might have to combine patterns, but I did find two similarly sized pieces of a very nice silk/cotton blend in muted jewel tones. At $242/meter, this Lee Jofa fabric is not something I would normally ever buy (not in my wildest, student-loan-addled dreams), so it was a treat to work with a bit of it. The pattern I chose is extremely simple and is explained in a nice tutorial. I wanted something a) easy, b) fast, and c) reversible, and this fit the bill perfectly.

There is something so satisfying about topstitching. Especially when I manage to do it in a straight line.

After just a couple of hours (it helped that one of the silk pieces didn’t need cutting), I had the finished product in hand:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Big enough for a knitting project, small enough to fit into a backpack or other bag. For the lining and handles, I used up some church spire-themed cotton (no hidden religious message, really) I had picked up at The Workroom and had leftover from another project:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

(Technically, since the bag is reversible, this is the other side rather than the lining.)

All in all, a quick, satisfying project, and one that was loved by the recipient. Win!

Posted in Feature, finished object, sewing | Leave a comment

Spinning embroidery thread

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just a quick peek at one of my big projects completed this past year, a hand-embroidered piece made with all hand-prepped, handspun alpaca thread. This is a sample of the finished thread, with a Canadian quarter for size comparison. More to come!

Posted in alpaca, embroidery, Spinning | Leave a comment

Rigid heddle houndstooth/pinwheel scarf

 

 

 

 

 

 

After a long, graduate school-induced blog slumber, I decided it was time for a new post. And so I went through some photos of my more recent fibre arts projects, including this handwoven scarf, begun way back when, and dormant on the loom until this past December. I decided to finish it as a holiday gift for a friend, and was pretty pleased with the result (excluding the beginning of the scarf, where I beat the weft a little zealously and distorted the pinwheel/houndstooth motif). The recipient was quite happy with it too, so that was icing. Here’s a shot of what the majority of it looks like, all satisfyingly even:

 

 

 

 

 

 

The pattern is simple: alternate two warp strands of each colour, and the same for the weft. I twisted the fringe (four strands per, er, fringelet, I think) to finish it. This is a quick and easy tutorial for twisting fringe.

I think I’ll get another scarf on the loom this summer, probably with something handspun as weft.

Posted in Feature, finished object, Uncategorized, weaving | Leave a comment

Indigo

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Several months back I bought this braid of merino/yak blend fiber from A Verb for Keeping Warm. The faint blue tinge is a light indigo overdye, and while the fiber has sat pretty much untouched since my original purchase, I’m much more inclined to spin it up now that the new Colorways is out. I contributed an article on indigo-bearing plants around the world, an assignment that gave me a much greater appreciation for the indigo dyeing process as well as tested my French skills (a primary source for my information was Dominique Cardon’s excellent Le monde de teintures naturelles, and impossible to find in an English translation in Ottawa).

 

 

 

 

 

 

Looks like nice stuff, doesn’t it? If it turns out well I might send it to Rhinebeck.

Posted in Feature, Spinning, sustainability, writing | Leave a comment

McCall’s 3341 – A-line skirt



 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For my first non-bag/not-made-in-a-class sewing project, I picked McCall’s 3341, View C, a simple knee-length A-line skirt. At first I wanted to take a class on making a lined skirt, but thanks to the multitude of blogs and online tutorials on the subject I decided to jump in on my own. I certainly learned a lot with this project: how to make a lining (the pattern is for an unlined skirt), how to put in darts, and how to grade seams and clip curves so my facings would lie flatter. Not that I was entirely successful in all of this; here you’ll see my control of straight lines leaves something to be desired:

 

 

 

 

I did get a bit sloppy with my seams and didn’t finish the edges. Nor was I aware of understitching, and instead I sewed the facing directly to the lining. I’m actually quite happy with the result, but I’ll try understitching on my next project.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I also learned that, as with knitting, sewing your own clothes does not save you any money. The prevalence of cheap, likely unethically produced clothing ensures that one can almost always buy a ready-made product for much less than the cost of making it from scratch. The fabric for this project–quilting cotton for the skirt itself, and cotton voile for the lining–was at least discounted, having been found after a few good digs through the cramped bargain basements of local fabric shops. Because of the nature of mass textile production, it’s much harder to stick to ideals of sustainability when it comes to sewing, at least if you can’t afford to spend $50/m on organic, minimally processed cotton. Compromise is inevitable, unless you have the time to spin and weave your own fabric (not likely to happen, at least with my current lifestyle).

My next project may involve drafting my own pattern. The size 14 (that’s a dressmaker’s size, mind, not a rack size) fit well enough, but it’s still made for a generic body type and could of course fit better. Being short, I should have made View D, as View C originally came pretty far down my calves and was subject to some rather severe hemming. There are a couple of Burda and Vogue patterns I’d like to make as well, but I’ll probably alter them. What I’d really like is to take a class or two in tailoring and learn how to make truly well-fitting clothes for myself. After all, if I’m going to go to all the trouble of making something myself, it at least ought to fit better than a piece off the rack, right?

Posted in sewing, sustainability | Leave a comment

Best Handspun Yarn at Pagosa Springs

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This past May I entered the skein competition at the Pagosa Springs Fiber Festival in Colorado. Pagosa is a small festival but they run an excellent skein competition with prestigious judges. This year was no exception, featuring Joan Ruane and Ric Rao at the judging table. I was thrilled not only to receive very thoughtful and detailed comments for my entry, but the Best Handspun Yarn award as well:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Both the skein and garment competitions award a pewter medal and a braided horsehair necklace to the top entries. It’s a beautiful piece and lists the honors on the reverse:

 

 

 

 

 

I’m really happy with the outcome, but I also learned a lesson about cross-border shipping. Although I included return USPS postage, the competition organizers decided to ship it back to me via UPS, presumably to reduce the chance it would be lost in the mail or sit for ages in a warehouse during the Canada Post lockout. While I appreciate the intention, I ended up paying an exorbitant brokerage fee to UPS to get my package delivered. Next time, and for any future competitions, I’m including a note asking the organizer to send my skeins back via USPS only.

Posted in Awards, competition, skein competition how-to, Spinning | 3 Comments